The Allegash & East Branch
- Part 5
MONDAY, July 27.
Having rapidly loaded the canoe,
which the Indian always carefully attended to, that it might be well trimmed,
and each having taken a look, as usual, to see that nothing was left, we
set out again, descending the Caucomgomoc, and turning northeasterly up
the Umbazookskus. This name, the Indian said, meant Much Meadow
River. We found it a very meadowy stream, and dead water, and now very
wide on account of the rains, though, he said, it was sometimes quite narrow.
The space between the woods, chiefly bare meadow, was from fifty to two
hundred rods in breadth, and is a rare place for moose. It reminded me
of the Concord; and what increased the resemblance, was one old musquash
house almost afloat.
In the water on the meadows grew sedges, wool-grass,
the common blue-flag abundantly, its flower just showing itself above the
high water, as if it were a blue water-lily, and higher in the meadows
a great many clumps of a peculiar narrow-leaved willow (Salix petiolaris),
which is common in our river meadows. It was the prevailing one here, and
the Indian said that the musquash ate much of it; and here also grew the
red osier (Cornus stolonifera), its large fruit now whitish.
Though it was still early in the morning, we saw
night-hawks circling over the meadow, and as usualy heard the Pepe
(Muscicapa Cooperi), which is one of the prevailing birds in these
woods, and the robin.
It was unusual for the woods to be so distant from
the shore, and there was quite an echo from them, but when I was shouting
in order to awake it, the Indian reminded me that I should scare the moose,
which he was looking out for, and which we all wanted to see. The word
for echo was Pockadunkquaywayle.
A broad belt of dead larch-trees along the distant
edge of the meadow, against the forest on each side, increased the usual
wildness of the scenery. The Indian called these juniper, and said that
they had been killed by the back water caused bythe dam at the outlet of
Chesuncook Lake, some twenty milesdistant. I plucked at the water's edge
the Asclepias incarnata,with quite handsome flowers, a brighter
red than our variety(the pulchra). It was the only form of it which
I saw there.
Having paddled several miles up the Umbazookskus,
it suddenly contracted to a mere brook, narrow and swift, the larches and
other trees approaching the bank and leaving no open meadow, and we landed
to get a black-spruce pole for pushing against the stream. This was the
first occasion for one. The one selected was quite slender, cut about ten
feet long, merely whittled to a point, and the bark shaved off. The stream,
though narrow and swift, was still deep, with a muddy bottom, as I proved
by div1ing to it. Beside the plants which I have mentioned, I observed
on the bank here the Salix cordata and rostrata, Ranunculus
recurvatus, and Rubus triflorus with ripe fruit.
While we were thus employed, two Indians in a canoe
hove in sight round the bushes, coming down stream. Our Indian knew one
of them, an old man, and fell into conversation with him in Indian. He
belonged at the foot of Moosehead. The other was of another tribe. They
were returning from hunting. I asked the younger if they had seen any moose,
to which he said no; but I, seeing the moose-hides sticking out from a
great bundle made with their blankets in the middle of the canoe, added,
"Only their hides." As he was a foreigner, he may have wished to deceive
me, for it is against the law for white men and foreigners to kill moose
in Maine at this season. But, perhaps, he need not have been alarmed, for
the moose-wardens are not very particular. I heard quite directly of one,
who being asked by a white man going into the woods what he would say if
he killed a moose, answered, "If you bring me a quarter of it, I guess
you won't be troubled." His duty being, as he said, only to prevent the
"indiscriminate" slaughter of them for their hides. I suppose that he would
consider it an indiscriminate slaughter when a quarter was not reserved
for himself. Such are the perquisites of this office.
We continued along through the most extensive larch
wood which I had seen,--tall and slender trees with fantastic branches.
But though this was the prevailing tree here, I do not remember that we
saw any afterward. You do not find straggling trees of this species here
and there throughout the wood, but rather a little forest of them. The
same is the case with the white and red pines, and some other trees, greatly
to the convenience of the lumberer. They are of a social habit, growing
in "veins," "clumps," "groups," or "communities," as the explorers call
them, distinguishing them far away, from the top of a hill or a tree, the
white pines towering above the surrounding forest, or else they form extensive
forests by themselves. I would have liked to come across a large community
of pines, which had never been invaded by the lumbering army.
We saw some fresh moose tracks along the shore, but
the Indian said that the moose were not driven out of the woods by the
flies, as usual at this season, on account of the abundance of water everywhere.
The stream was only from one and one half to three rods wide, quite winding,
with occasional small islands, meadows, and some very swift and shallow
places. When we came to an island, the Indian never hesitated which side
to take, as if the current told him which was the shortest and deepest.
It was lucky for us that the water was so high. We had to walk but once
on this stream, carrying a part of the load, at a swift and shallow reach,
while he got up with the canoe, not being obliged to take out, though he
said it was very strong water. Once or twice we passed the red wreck of
a bateau which had been stove some spring.
While making this portage I saw many splendid specimens
of the great purple-fringed orchis, three feet high. It is remarkable that
such delicate flowers should here adorn these wilderness paths.
Having resumed our seats in the canoe, I felt the
Indian wiping my back, which he had acccidentally spat upon. He said it
was a sign that I was going to be married.
The Umbazookskus River is called ten miles long.
Having polled up the narrowest part some three or four miles, the next
opening in the sky was over Umbazookskus Lake, which we suddenly entered
about eleven o'clock in the forenoon. It stretches northwesterly four or
five miles, with what the Indian called the Caucomgomoc Mountain seen far
beyond it. It was an agreeable change.
This lake was very shallow a long distance from the
shore, and I saw stone heaps on the bottom, like those in the Assabet at
home. The canoe ran into one. The Indian thought that they were made by
an eel. Joe Aitteon in 1853 thought that they were made by chub. We crossed
the southeast end of the lake to the carry into Mud Pond.
Umbazookskus Lake is the head of the Penobscot in
this direction, and Mud Pond is the nearest head of the Allegash, one of
the chief sources of the St. John. Hodge, who went through this way to
the St. Lawrence in the service of the State, calls the portage here a
mile and three quarters long, and states that Mud Pond has been found to
be fourteen feet higher than Umbazookskus Lake. As the west branch of the
Penobscot at the Moosehead carry is considered about twenty-five feet lower
than Moosehead Lake, it appears that the Penobscot in the upper part of
its course runs in a broad and shallow valley, between the Kennebec and
St. Johns, and lower than either of them, though, judging from the map,
you might expect it to be the highest.
Mud Pond is about half-way from Umbazookskus to Chamberlain
Lake, into which it empties, and to which we were bound. The Indian said
that this was the wettest carry in the State, and as the season was a very
wet one, we anticipated an unpleasant walk. As usual he made one large
bundle of the pork-keg, cooking utensils, and other loose traps, by tying
them up in his blanket. We should be obliged to go over the carry twice,
and our method was to carry one half part way, and then go back for the
rest.
Our path ran close by the door of a log-hut in a
clearing at this end of the carry, which the Indian, who alone entered
it, found to be occupied by a Canadian and his family, and that the man
had been blind for a year. He seemed peculiarly unfortunate to be taken
blind there, where there were so few eyes to see for him. He could not
even be led out of that country by a dog, but must be taken down the rapids
as passively as a barrel of flour. This was the first house above Chesuncook,
and the last on the Penobscot waters, and was built here, no doubt, because
it was the route of the lumberers in the winter and spring.
After a slight ascent from the lake through the springy
soil of the Canadian's clearing, we entered on a level and very wet and
rocky path through the universal dense evergreen forest, a loosely paved
gutter merely, where we went leaping from rock to rock and from side to
side, in the vain attempt to keep out of the water and mud. We concluded
that it was yet Penobscot water, though there was no flow to it. It was
on this carry that the white hunter whom I met in the stage, as he told
me, had shot two bears a few months before. They stood directly in the
path, and did not turn out for him. They might be excused for not turning
out there, or only taking the right as the law directs. He said that at
this season bears were found on the mountains and hillsides, in search
of berries, and were apt to be saucy,--that we might come across them up
Trout Stream; and he added, what I hardly credited, that many Indians slept
in their canoes, not daring to sleep on land, on account of them.
Here commences what was called, twenty years ago,
the best timber land in the State. This very spot was described as "covered
with the greatest abundance of pine," but now this appeared to me, comparatively,
an uncommon tree there,--and yet you did not see where any more could have
stood, amid the dense growth of cedar, fir, &c. It was then proposed
to cut a canal from lake to lake here, but the outlet was finally made
farther east, at Telos Lake, as we shall see.
The Indian with his canoe soon disappeared before
us; but erelong he came back and told us to take a path which turned off
westward, it being better walking, and, at my suggestion, he agreed to
leave a bough in the regular carry at that place, that we might not pass
it by mistake. Thereafter, he said, we were to keep the main path, and
he added, "You see 'em my tracks." But I had not much faith that we could
distinguish his tracks, since others had passed over the carry within a
few days.
We turned off at the right place, but were soon confused
by numerous logging-paths, coming into the one we were on, by which lumberers
had been to pick out those pines which I have mentioned. However, we kept
what we considered the main path, though it was a winding one, and in this,
at long intervals, we distinguished a faint trace of a footstep. This,
though comparatively unworn, was at first a better, or, at least, a drier
road, than the regular carry which we had left. It led through an arbor-vitæ
wilderness of the grimmest character. The great fallen and rotting trees
had been cut through and rolled aside, and their huge trunks abutted on
the path on each side, while others still lay across it two or three feet
high. It was impossible for us to discern the Indian's trail in the elastic
moss, which, like a thick carpet, covered every rock and fallen tree, as
well as the earth. Nevertheless, I did occasionally detect the track of
a man, and I gave myself some credit for it. I carried my whole load at
once, a heavy knapsack, and a large India-rubber bag, containing our bread
and a blanket, swung on a paddle; in all, about sixty pounds; but my companion
preferred to make two journeys, by short stages, while I waited for him.
We could not be sure that we were not depositing our loads each time farther
off from the true path.
As I sat waiting for my companion, he would seem
to be gone a long time, and I had ample opportunity to make observations
on the forest. I now first began to be seriously molested by the black-fly,
a very small but perfectly formed fly of that color, about one tenth of
an inch long, which I first felt, and then saw, in swarms about me, as
I sat by a wider and more than usually doubtful fork in this dark forest-path.
The hunters tell bloody stories about them,--how they settle in a ring
about your neck, before you know it, and are wiped off in great numbers
with your blood. But remembering that I had a wash in my knapsack, prepared
by a thoughtful hand in Bangor, I made haste to apply it to my face and
hands, and was glad to find it effectual, as long as it was fresh, or for
twenty minutes, not only against black-flies, but all the insects that
molested us. They would not alight on the part thus defended. It was composed
of sweet-oil and oil of turpentine, with a little oil of spearmint, and
camphor. However, I finally concluded that the remedy was worse than the
disease. It was so disagreeable and inconvenient to have your face and
hands covered with such a mixture.
Three large slate-colored birds of the jay genus
(Garrulus Canadensis), the Canada-jay, moose-bird, meat-bird, or
what not, came flitting silently and by degrees toward me, and hopped down
the limbs inquisitively to within seven or eight feet. They were more clumsy
and not nearly so handsome as the blue-jay. Fish-hawks, from the lake,
uttered their sharp whistling notes low over the top of the forest near
me, as if they were anxious about a nest there.
After I had sat there some time, I noticed at this
fork in the path a tree which had been blazed, and the letters "Chamb.
L." written on it with red chalk. This I knew to mean Chamberlain Lake.
So I concluded that on the whole we were on the right course, though as
we had come nearly two miles, and saw no signs of Mud Pond, I did harbor
the suspicion that we might be on a direct course to Chamberlain Lake,
leaving out Mud Pond. This I found by my map would be about five miles
northeasterly, and I then took the bearing by my compass.
My companion having returned with his bag, and also
defended his face and hands with the insect-wash, we set forward again.
The walking rapidly grew worse, and the path more indistinct, and at length,
after passing through a patch of calla palustris, still abundantly
in bloom, we found ourselves in a more open and regular swamp, made less
passable than ordinary by the unusual wetness of the season. We sank a
foot deep in water and mud at every step, and sometimes up to our knees,
and the trail was almost obliterated, being no more than that a musquash
leaves in similar places, when he parts the floating sedge. In fact, it
probably was a musquash trail in some places. We concluded that if Mud
Pond was as muddy as the approach to it was wet, it certainly deserved
its name. It would have been amusing to behold the dogged and deliberate
pace at which we entered that swamp, without interchanging a word, as if
determined to go through it, though it should come up to our necks. Having
penetrated a considerable distance into this, and found a tussuck on which
we could deposit our loads, though there was no place to sit, my companion
went back for the rest of his pack. I had thought to observe on this carry
when we crossed the div1iding line between the Penobscot and St. John,
but as my feet had hardly been out of water the whole distance, and it
was all level and stagnant, I began to despair of finding it. I remembered
hearing a good deal about the "highlands" div1iding the waters of the Penobscot
from those of the St. John, as well as the St. Lawrence, at the time of
the northeast boundary dispute, and I observed by my map, that the line
claimed by Great Britain as the boundary prior to 1842 passed between Umbazookskus
Lake and Mud Pond, so that we had either crossed or were then on it. These,
then, according to her interpretation of the treaty of '83, were
the "highlands which div1ide those rivers that empty themselves into the
St. Lawrence from those which fall into the Atlantic Ocean." Truly an interesting
spot to stand on,--if that were it,--though you could not sit down there.
I thought that if the commissioners themselves, and the king of Holland
with them, had spent a few days here, with their packs upon their backs,
looking for that "highland," they would have had an interesting time, and
perhaps it would have modified their views of the question somewhat. The
king of Holland would have been in his element. Such were my meditations
while my companion was gone back for his bag.
It was a cedar swamp, through which the peculiar
note of the white-throated sparrow rang loud and clear. There grew the
side-saddle flower, Labrador tea, Kalmia glauca, and, what was new
to me, the Low Birch (Betula pumila), a little round-leafed shrub,
two or three feet high only. We thought to name this swamp after the latter.
After a long while my companion came back, and the
Indian with him. We had taken the wrong road, and the Indianhad lost us.
He had very wisely gone back to the Canadian's camp, and asked him which
way we had probably gone, since he could better understand the ways of
white men, and he told him correctly that we had undoubtedly taken the
supply road to Chamberlain Lake (slender supplies they would get over such
a road at this season). The Indian was greatly surprised that we should
have taken what he called a "tow" (i. e. tote or toting or supply) road,
instead of a carry path,--that we had not followed his tracks,--said it
was "strange," and evidently thought little of our woodcraft.
Having held a consultation, and eaten a mouthful
of bread, we concluded that it would, perhaps, be nearer for us two now
to keep on to Chamberlain Lake, omitting Mud Pond, than to go back and
start anew for the last place, though the Indian had never been through
this way, and knew nothing about it. In the meanwhile he would go back
and finish carrying over his canoe and bundle to Mud Pond, cross that,
and go down its outlet and up Chamberlain Lake, and trust to meet us there
before night. It was now a little after noon. He supposed that the water
in which we stood had flowed back from Mud Pond, which could not be far
off eastward, but was unapproachable through the dense cedar swamp.
Keeping on, we were erelong agreeably disappointed
by reaching firmer ground, and we crossed a ridge where the path was more
distinct, but there was never any outlook over the forest. While descending
the last, I saw many specimens of the great round-leaved orchis, of large
size; one which I measured had leaves, as usual, flat on the ground, nine
and a half inches long, and nine wide, and was two feet high. The dark,
damp wilderness is favorable to some of these orchidaceous plants, though
they are too delicate for cultivation. I also saw the swamp gooseberry
(Ribes lacustre), with green fruit, and in all the low ground, where
it was not too wet, the Rubus triflorus in fruit. At one place I
heard a very clear and piercing note from a small hawk, like a single note
from a white-throated sparrow, only very much louder, as he dashed through
the tree-tops over my head. I wondered that he allowed himself to be disturbed
by our presence, since it seemed as if he could not easily find his nest
again himself in that wilderness. We also saw and heard several times the
red squirrel, and often, as before observed, the bluish scales of the fir
cones which it had left on a rock or fallen tree. This, according to the
Indian, is the only squirrel found in those woods, except a very few striped
ones. It must have a solitary time in that dark evergreen forest, where
there is so little life, seventy-five miles from a road as we had come.
I wondered how he could call any particular tree there his home; and yet
he would run up the stem of one out of the myriads, as if it were an old
road to him. How can a hawk ever find him there? I fancied that he must
be glad to see us, though he did seem to chide us. One of those sombre
fir and spruce woods is not complete unless you hear from out its cavernous
mossy and twiggy recesses his fine alarum,--his spruce voice, like the
working of the sap through some crack in a tree,--the working of the spruce-beer.
Such an impertinent fellow would occasionally try to alarm the wood about
me. "O," said I, "I am well acquainted with your family, I know your cousins
in Concord very well. Guess the mail 's irregular in these parts, and you'd
like to hear from 'em." But my overtures were vain, for he would withdraw
by his aerial turnpikes into a more distant cedar-top, and spring his rattle
again.
We then entered another swamp, at a necessarily slow
pace, where the walking was worse than ever, not only on account of the
water, but the fallen timber, which often obliterated the indistinct trail
entirely. The fallen trees were so numerous, that for long distances the
route was through a succession of small yards, where we climbed over fences
as high as our heads, down into water often up to our knees, and then over
another fence into a second yard, and so on; and going back for his bag
my companion once lost his way and came back without it. In many places
the canoe would have run if it had not been for the fallen timber. Again
it would be more open, but equally wet, too wet for trees to grow, and
no place to sit down. It was a mossy swamp, which it required the long
legs of a moose to traverse, and it is very likely that we scared some
of them in our transit, though we saw none. It was ready to echo the growl
of a bear, the howl of a wolf, or the scream of a panther; but when you
get fairly into the middle of one of these grim forests, you are surprised
to find that the larger inhabitants are not at home commonly, but have
left only a puny red squirrel to bark at you. Generally speaking, a howling
wilderness does not howl: it is the imagination of the traveller that does
the howling. I did, however, see one dead porcupine; perhaps he had succumbed
to the difficulties of the way. These bristly fellows are a very suitable
small fruit of such unkempt wildernesses.
Making a logging-road in the Maine woods is called
"swamping it," and they who do the work are called "swampers." I now perceived
the fitness of the term. This was the most perfectly swamped of all the
roads I ever saw. Nature must have co-operated with art here. However,
I suppose they would tell you that this name took its origin from the fact
that the chief work of road-makers in those woods is to make the swamps
passable. We came to a stream where the bridge, which had been made of
logs tied together with cedar bark, had been broken up, and we got over
as we could. This probably emptied into Mud Pond, and perhaps the Indian
might have come up it and taken us in there if he had known it. Such as
it was, this ruined bridge was the chief evidence that we were on a path
of any kind.
We then crossed another low rising ground, and I,
who wore shoes, had an opportunity to wring out my stockings, but my companion,
who used boots, had found that this was not a safe experiment for him,
for he might not be able to get his wet boots on again. He went over the
whole ground, or water, three times, for which reason our progress was
very slow; beside that the water softened our feet, and to some extent
unfitted them for walking. As I sat waiting for him, it would naturally
seem an unaccountable time that he was gone. Therefore, as I could see
through the woods that the sun was getting low, and it was uncertain how
far the lake might be, even if we were on the right course, and in what
part of the world we should find ourselves at nightfall, I proposed that
I should push through with what speed I could, leaving boughs to mark my
path, and find the lake and the Indian, if possible, before night, and
send the latter back to carry my companion's bag.
Having gone about a mile, and got into low ground
again, I heard a noise like the note of an owl, which I soon discovered
to be made by the Indian, and answering him, we soon came together. He
had reached the lake, after crossing Mud Pond, and running some rapids
below it, and had come up about a mile and a half on our path. If he had
not come back to meet us, we probably should not have found him that night,
for the path branched once or twice before reaching this particular part
of the lake. So he went back for my companion and his bag, while I kept
on. Having waded through another stream where the bridge of logs had been
broken up and half floated away,--and this was not altogether worse than
our ordinary walking, since it was less muddy,--we continued on, through
alternate mud and water, to the shore of Apmoojenegamook Lake, which we
reached in season for a late supper, instead of dining there, as we had
expected, having gone without our dinner. It was at least five miles by
the way we had come, and as my companion had gone over most of it three
times, he had walked full a dozen miles, bad as it was. In the winter,
when the water is frozen, and the snow is four feet deep, it is no doubt
a tolerable path to a footman. As it was, I would not have missed that
walk for a good deal. If you want an exact recipe for making such a road,
take one part Mud Pond, and dilute it with equal parts of Umbazookskus
and Apmoojenegamook; then send a family of musquash through to locate it,
look after the grades and culverts, and finish it to their minds, and let
a hurricane follow to do the fencing.
We had come out on a point extending into Apmoojenegamook,
or Chamberlain Lake, west of the outlet of Mud Pond, where there was a
broad, gravelly, and rocky shore, encumbered with bleached logs and trees.
We were rejoiced to see such dry things in that part of the world. But
at first we did not attend to dryness so much as to mud and wetness. We
all three walked into the lake up to our middle to wash our clothes.
This was another noble lake, called twelve miles
long, east and west; if you add Telos Lake, which, since the dam was built,
has been connected with it by dead water, it will be twenty; and it is
apparently from a mile and a half to two miles wide. We were about midway
its length, on the south side. We could see the only clearing in these
parts, called the "Chamberlain Farm," with two or three log buildings close
together, on the opposite shore, some two and a half miles distant. The
smoke of our fire on the shore brought over two men in a canoe from the
farm, that being a common signal agreed on when one wishes to cross. It
took them about half an hour to come over, and they had their labor for
their pains this time. Even the English name of the lake had a wild, woodland
sound, reminding me of that Chamberlain who killed Paugus at Lovewell's
fight.
After putting on such dry clothes as we had, and
hanging the others to dry on the pole which the Indian arranged over the
fire, we ate our supper, and lay down on the pebbly shore with our feet
to the fire, without pitching our tent, making a thin bed of grass to cover
the stones.
Here first I was molested by the little midge called
the No-see-em (Simulium nocivum, the latter word is not the Latin
for no-see-em), especially over the sand at the water's edge, for it is
a kind of sand-fly. You would not observe them but for their light-colored
wings. They are said to get under your clothes, and produce a feverish
heat, which I suppose was what I felt that night.
Our insect foes in this excursion, to sum them up,
were, first, mosquitoes, the chief ones, but only troublesome at night,
or when we sat still on shore by day; second, black flies (Simulium
molestum), which molested us more or less on the carries by day, as
I have before described, and sometimes in narrower parts of the stream.
Harris mistakes when he says that they are not seen after June. Third,
moose-flies. The big ones, Polis said, were called Bososquasis.
It is a stout brown fly, much like a horse-fly, about eleven sixteenths
of an inch long, commonly rusty colored beneath, with unspotted wings.
They can bite smartly, according to Polis, but are easily avoided or killed.
Fourth, the No-see-ems above mentioned. Of all these, the mosquitoes are
the only ones that troubled me seriously; but, as I was provided with a
wash and a veil, they have not made any deep impression.
The Indian would not use our wash to protect his
face and hands, for fear that it would hurt his skin, nor had he any veil;
he, therefore, suffered from insects now, and throughout this journey,
more than either of us. I think that he suffered more than I did, when
neither of us was protected. He regularly tied up his face in his handkerchief,
and buried it in his blanket, and he now finally lay down on the sand between
us and the fire for the sake of the smoke, which he tried to make enter
his blanket about his face, and for the same purpose he lit his pipe and
breathed the smoke into his blanket.
As we lay thus on the shore, with nothing between
us and the stars, I inquired what stars he was acquainted with, or had
names for. They were the Great Bear, which he called by this name, the
Seven Stars, which he had no English name for, "the morning star," and
"the north star."
In the middle of the night, as indeed each time that
we lay on the shore of a lake, we heard the voice of the loon, loud and
distinct, from far over the lake. It is a very wild sound, quite in keeping
with the place and the circumstances of the traveller, and very unlike
the voice of a bird. I could lie awakefor hours listening to it, it is
so thrilling. When camping in such a wilderness as this, you are prepared
to hear sounds from some of its inhabitants which will give voice to its
wildness. Some idea of bears, wolves, or panthers runs in your head naturally,
and when this note is first heard very far off at midnight, as you lie
with your ear to the ground,--the forest being perfectly still about you,
you take it for granted that it is the voice of a wolf or some other wild
beast, for only the last part is heard when at a distance,--you conclude
that it is a pack of wolves baying the moon, or, perchance, cantering after
a moose. Strange as it may seem, the "mooing" of a cow on a mountain-side
comes nearest to my idea of the voice of a bear; and this bird's note resembled
that. It was the unfailing and characteristic sound of those lakes. We
were not so lucky as to hear wolves howl, though that is an occasional
serenade. Some friends of mine, who two years ago went up the Caucomgomoc
River, were serenaded by wolves while moose-hunting by moonlight. It was
a sudden burst, as if a hundred demons had broke loose,--a startling sound
enough, which, if any, would make your hair stand on end, and all was still
again. It lasted but a moment, and you 'd have thought there were twenty
of them, when probably there were only two or three. They heard it twice
only, and they said that it gave expression to the wilderness which it
lacked before. I heard of some men who, while skinning a moose lately in
those woods, were driven off from the carcass by a pack of wolves, which
ate it up.
This of the loon--I do not mean its laugh, but its
looning--is a long-drawn call, as it were, sometimes singularly human to
my ear,--hoo-hoo-ooooo, like the hallooing of a man on a very high
key, having thrown his voice into his head. I have heard a sound exactly
like it when breathing heavily through my own nostrils, half awake at ten
at night, suggesting my affinity to the loon; as if its language were but
a dialect of my own, after all. Formerly, when lying awake at midnight
in those woods, I had listened to hear some words or syllables of their
language, but it chanced that I listened in vain until I heard the cry
of the loon. I have heard it occasionally on the ponds of my native town,
but there its wildness is not enhanced by the surrounding scenery.
I was awakened at midnight by some heavy, low-flying
bird, probably a loon, flapping by close over my head, along the shore.
So, turning the other side of my half-clad body to the fire, I sought slumber
again.
[ 홈 ] [ 위로 ] [ Thoreau's Ktaadn - 1 ] [ Thoreau's Ktaadn - 2 ] [ Thoreau's Ktaadn - 3 ] [ Thoreau's Ktaadn - 4 ] [ Thoreau's Ktaadn - 5 ] [ Thoreau's Ktaadn - 6 ] [ Thoreau's Chesuncook - 1 ] [ Thoreau's Chesuncook - 2 ] [ Thoreau's Chesuncook - 3 ] [ Thoreau's Chesuncook - 4 ] [ Thoreau's Chesuncook - 5 ] [ Thoreau's Chesuncook - 6 ] [ Thoreau's Allegash & East Branch - 1 ] [ Thoreau's Allegash & East Branch - 2 ] [ Thoreau's Allegash & East Branch - 3 ] [ Thoreau's Allegash & East Branch - 4 ] [ Thoreau's Allegash & East Branch - 5 ] [ Thoreau's Allegash & East Branch - 6 ] [ Thoreau's Allegash & East Branch - 7 ] [ Thoreau's Allegash & East Branch - 8 ] [ Thoreau's Allegash & East Branch - 9 ] [ Thoreau's Allegash & East Branch - 10 ]
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